First Look at Osaka

Osaka Station area

Osaka from the ferris wheel

Osaka is a huge modern city of 9 million people, quite different than where I've been the last 6 weeks.  Throngs of people are going every which way, there are tons of skyscrapers, some quite interesting.  Osaka Station, a huge complex in the midst of a major revitalization project, has two train stations, at least 5 other subway or private train lines coming through, bus stops n front, several department stores, a hotel or two, multiple restaurants, and some shopping arcades.  It makes Grand Central look small!

Alfred Manta Ray

I spent much of my first full day here down in the port area, visiting the Osaka Aquarium, designed by Tadao Ando.  But first, I went on the ferris wheel, one of the world’s largest it says.  It was just fun – reminded me of the London Millenium Wheel – and it was a great way to see the city from above.  

Part of Aquarium fac

The aquarium was terrific.  It is more than a zoo for fish, for it also had animals that live near or on the water.  There was a gorgeous white duck with a little bit of black trim, a fluffy white heron, and of course, penguins.  There was a big green iguana from Ecuador and a capybara, the world’s largest rodent at 130 cm (roughly 50”) long and 70 kg (150 lb) in weight!  My favorite, though, was the Alfred Manta Ray, gracefully swooping through the water, a fish getting a ride on its back.  It was fascinating to see animals I’d never seen before or didn’t know even existed.  There are more on Facebook if you want to see them.

Yayoi Kusama, Tulip Installation

National Art Museum Entrance

In the afternoon, I had a “first ever” experience that I suspect has rarely occurred anywhere:  I went to see the National Museum of Art and found that its entire exhibition space – its special exhibition of Yayoi Kusama’s recent work and its “Collection” exhibit – was of female artists since WWII.  I have never seen an all-female exhibit of work in the arts, which like many fields is predominantly male.  Kusama is a rather eccentric artist whose work I first saw in Naoshima several years ago.  She was part of the New York art scene in the ‘60’s, paints polka dots almost obsessively, though her new work here was more organic and wild.  The Collection exhibit , which was quite good, had roughly half Japanese, half western artists, though interestingly no one’s home country was listed.

Minami area shopping street

Pachinko Parlor sig

On Saturday, I decided to wander in the shopping districts in what’s known as the Minami Area.  This, too, was an experience:  crowds of people everywhere, mostly strolling or eating.  There were gritty narrow alleys off shopping arcades filled with shops, restaurants, and Pachinko parlors, which are so noisy that I can’t tolerate being inside for more than a few seconds. 

Waiting in line for Takoyaki

Takoyaki cooking

People were lined up for takoyaki, chunks of octopus in batter, cooked in a cast-iron round-holed muffin-tin, where the cook turns them many times with a think chopstick until they are golden brown.  I had just eaten lunch, so wasn’t interested in standing in line for half an hour to get a taste.  Next time.

I also wandered up Mido-suji, a wide avenue that reminded me of Fifth Avenue in New York:  all the high-end name brand stores are here, including a very crowded Apple Store, though this one is sheathed in what looked like matte stainless steel.

Bike parking

On an Osaka side stree

I’m only in Osaka for a few days and will be returning in April before going to Tokushima.  There is so much to see and do here that I may come back for another visit, so consider this a first taste of this huge, bustling, lively city.